Biochar Rocket Building Instructions.
The link below is to a leaflet describing the stove and with diagrams of how to build one.
The above pdf shows a drawing of a basic biochar stove and of its components. (Thank you Dianne Holness for putting this together).
If you want to build a biochar rocket stove with the intention us using it to replace your indoor heat and cook systems then you need to build one with a fuel feed hatch and a biochar emptying hatch.
Click on the pictures to enlarge.
Thank you again Dianne for the following drawing:
The welds on these stoves need to be continuous (rather than spot welds) and must be air tight in order to ensure that the wood gases do not escape. (you will know if there is a leak, there will be a jet of yellow, sweet smelling smoke. This contains aromatic hydrocarbons which are toxic).
From left to right: Feed hopper door; Stove unit and base; Air inlet pipe (in front); removable floor; Biochar bucket; Hot water tank stand; Hot water tank and header tank; Water heater and griddle hot plate; oven; room heater; flue pipe.
It is important to ensure that the glass fibre rope seal on the feed hopper closes tightly to ensure no smoke emissions. An alternative way to make an air tight door is to use a 6″ socket and barrel nipple available from engineering shops.
Instead of using a fan to ensure efficient, smokeless combustion, the air feed pipe is designed to direct secondary air into the flames. (This is a good design idea on all rocket type stoves to improve combustion efficiency).
Optional room heaters can be added, stacked on top of each other and firmly attached to a strong wall, in order to capture any residual heat. These will serve to capture residual heat that would otherwise be lost to the atmosphere. The ideal medium with which to fill them is glass dust (which should be handled with caution) due to its high silicate content it is a good thermal mass. A cheaper option is to use sand, maybe mixed with broken glass. (Refer to the drawing above for a cross sectional sketch)
The stove is ideally suited for indoor use because it is lit from the front and not the top aswith most biochar stoves. It can therefore be left in place under heaters and flue outlets.
The assembled stove can be used to heat a hot plate griddle and is best used with either an oven or a water heater. In this photo I am trying to capture the heat for both uses.
Once installed the stove can be plastered with cob (adobe) or bricked in with bricks or stones according to your taste. This is for practical as well as aesthetic purposes; the encasement will also direct heat back into the retort to facilitate pyrolisis.
The ideas behind these simple
technologies are open source,
anybody can use, adapt and
modify them. If you do so
then you should be aware of
the risks involved and you do
so entirely at your own risk.